What is Fabric Spreading?
Fabric spreading is a initial operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of one cloth on top of the other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of the fabric. Cut order planner gives the number of plies of each colour. This article will discuss about special 10 requirements of fabric spreading. If you want to do job in garments industry at fabric spreading and cutting department, you must to know these 10 requirements of fabric spreading. To achieve good fabric spreading quality, you must fulfill these requirements of fabric spreading. Let’s come to learn about the factors which influence the number of plies of fabric depends on:
- Fabric thickness.
- Fabric types (fabric made with natural or man made fiber).
- Cutting machine capacity.
- Volume of production.
Requirements of Fabric Spreading
The special 10 requirements of fabric spreading in garments industry at fabric spreading and cutting department is listed below. Requirements of fabric spreading are:
- Alignment of fabric plies.
- Correct ply tension.
- Fabric must be flat.
- Elimination of fabric faults.
- Elimination of static electricity.
- Avoidance of distortion in spread.
- Matching checks or strips.
- Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability.
- Avoidance of fusion of plies.
- Easy separation of the cut lay and make into bundles.
Among the 10 requirements of fabric spreading, first three requirements of fabric spreading are the basic requirement of fabric spreading. However, now, all requirements of fabric spreading will be discuss with short note.
1. Alignment of Fabric Plies
Alignment of fabric plies is the first and most basic requirements of fabric spreading. Each ply should comprise at least the width of the marker plan, with the minimum extra outside those measurements of the marker. Fabric is vary in width, so the marker planer should be designed to fit the narrowest width. If the alignment is not accurate, plies may not cover all of the marker plan and parts of some pattern pieces will not be cut.
2. Correct Ply Tension
Correct ply tension is the second basic requirements of fabric spreading. The ply tension of fabric should be in correct tension. A low tension will result in ridges in the plies, whereas a high tension will result in shrinkage after cutting and sewing. The use of a spreading machine gives a uniform tension.
3. Fabric Must be Flat
Fabric must be flat when fabric is spread. It is the third basic requirements of fabric spreading. There will be ridges in fabric ply if the fabric laid on the table which is not flat.
4. Elimination of Fabric Faults
The fabric supplier may identify fabric faults (holes, stains, etc.), and the garment manufacturer may detect additional faults during fabric examination prior to spreading. The spreader cuts across the ply at the location of the fault and pulls back the cut end to overlap as far back as the next splice mark. Splice marks are marked on the edge of the spreading table prior to spreading, by reference to the marker, and this ensures that whenever a splice is created, there is sufficient fabric overlap to allow the garment parts to be cut as a whole rather than just sections. Currently, there are computerized methods of achieving this, including displaying the marker plan on a spreading machine’s computer screen.
5. Elimination of Static Electricity
When spreading fabric with man-made fibres, friction may increase the static electricity charge. By changing the method by which fabric is threaded through the spread machine’s guide bars, friction can be reduced. Additionally, the humidity in the cutting room may be increased, which can result in a continuous discharge of static electricity. Earthing the lay may be necessary in some cases.
6. Avoidance of Distortion in Spread
The cause of fabric distortion in spread is friction between the bottom spread fabric and surface of the fabric spreading table. To prevent friction between the bottom of the spread and the surface of the table, a layer of hard polyethylene sheet should be laid at its bottom. Consequently, one can avoid the distortion in spread.
7. Matching Checks or Strips
There is an important requirements of fabric spreading that is matching the check or strip of fabric. Sometimes, checks or strips of fabric have to be spread. If the fabric has a check or stripe, then it must be laid according to the marker plan and the fit should be checked by needle.
8. Correct Ply Direction and Adequate Lay Stability
Fabric type, pattern shape, and the spread equipment that is available are all important factors to consider together. It is important that the fabric is spread so that it maintains its direction when the pattern pieces have been positioned in a particular direction in the marker plan. Instabilities with nap or pile surfaces could result from surface design or fabric construction. In this case, symmetrical pattern pieces are placed face up or face down. If the patient pieces are asymmetrical, all pieces are placed face up or face down.
9. Avoidance of Fusion of Plies
In the case of thermoplastic fiber fabrics like polyester, nylon, they may fuse together in the time of cutting of fabric. Because, due to the frication between cutting knife and fabric, heat is produced. As a result, cutting knife becomes hot. These heat melt or fuse the cutting edges of the fabric. We can prevent fabric from melt or fuse by taking some necessary step. They are:
- We can use anti-fusion paper between two ply of fabric.
- We can use silicon lubricants. Consequently, reduce friction between cutting knife and fabric.
- Reducing ply height.
10. Easy Separation of the cut Lay and Make into Bundles
Due to colour or shade variations in fabrics, identification marks may be used in plies. To conduct this separation, low-valued colored paper is used.
Conclusion
To conclude, these are the requirements of fabric spreading which is most important for who want to do job or doing job in garments industry at fabric spreading and cutting department. Without fulfill this requirements of fabric spreading, it is not possible to delivery the garments on time with good quality.
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Reference
- Mr. R. Rathinamoorthy, M. R. (2015). Apparel Machinery and Equipments. New Delhi: Woodhead Publshing India Pvt Ltd.
- R. Rathinamoorthy, R. S. (2018). Apparel Merchandising. Chennai: Woodhead Publishing India Pvt. Ltd.
- Grace I. Kunz, Ruth E. Glock, (2004), Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product Analysis. 4th Edition. Prentice Hall.
